The festival is over

The festival is over, the feet are tired, the volunteers have celebrated with a final shared meal and the end of our stay at Birdsville is only one sleep away.  I've woken early to sort photos and watch one more sunrise.  The sun is streaming in the kitchen window, blinding me whilst highlighting the Old Ghan carriage.  Will is laying in bed listening to his music, the galahs are calling and all seems right in the world.

Today we head to the Kenworth shed for the last time to sweep and mop.  Dear Peter was worried that he would have to do the floors all by himself - no way!! The three of us hope that another one and a half hours together will see the job complete.  We will return to pack up our beautiful caravan and get ready for the trip home tomorrow, after us Birdvillian's have one more meal together, this time cooked by professionals and NOT a bbq! 

The good news is that we are both ready for home.  It's time to have the green grass under our feet, hug the son and daughter and hopefully find the cat waiting for us.  I know I will miss our very special time together terribly.  This seven weeks has been the most tranquil, relaxed, exciting and fun of our 11 years together.  As I sit here crying because I am already missing this wonderful place and our wonderful new friends and the new experiences every day brings, Will is reassuring me that everything will be okay and that there is plenty more good times ahead.  As the reassuring words flow my phone buzzes with an invite to a friend's 50th, what wonderful timing - a great reminder that we have wonderful friends and family waiting to welcome us home.


So, it's time to wipe the tears, cook the bacon, hang the lanyard around the neck and see what treats today brings.

(Hi Blog readers, rather than email I thought I would slip in this note.  We will be leaving early Wednesday morning and we hope to make it home by Saturday lunch time to watch Kyle's preliminary final, it's a home game. I will continue blogging on the way home, take care all, looking forward to hugs and catching up!!)

Some days are diamonds

Some days are diamonds and should never be forgotten.  Today was one of those days!! 

The first thing I ever knew about the NRTHF was that every 5th year they hold a massive parade of old trucks from all over the county and that if we were ever to visit Will wanted it to be at that time so he could watch the parade.  When we made the decision to volunteer we accepted that there was a risk that we would have to work during the time of the parade and therefor miss out, but we decided to go ahead anyway and just see what happened.  And what happened was just amazing.Will did have a job to do thanks to Mr Kenworth.  He had a black T909 Kenworth to drive in the parade and Pete had a red 200?? to drive.  Yes, drive in the 25th Anniversary Parade of the NRTHF. 

At the start line

The alarm went at 6.15am and the air was already filled with the smell and the haze of diesel.  Trucks were starting up in the paddock, some quickly, others less convincingly.  Orange flashing lights from trucks were sending out wake up calls for any who had hoped for a slight sleep in.  We were at the Kenworth shed by 6.45 am and trucks were already pulling out.  With trade plates attached, and final instructions given, the last from Mr Kenworth being - Enjoy yourself, we rolled out!  And enjoy ourselves we did! 

As we lined up at the Motor Registration Office we watched trucks of all shapes and sizes join the queue.  Old ones, new ones, shiny ones and quirky ones.  The atmosphere was electric.  A journalist from the ABC spoke to us after they interviewed Craig Membrey, who was 3rd truck in the parade.  Paraders wandered in between the trucks and checked out each others vehicles, made comparisons and shared stories.  I found darling Noelene making a cuppa at the back of her and Dave's beautifully restored Diamond T.  When she found out that we too were in the parade she jumped for joy.  She was so excited for Bill that she couldn't stand still!!  She was even more excited when she found out which truck.  She said "Oh, I dusted that last year but the bastards always had it locked, I never got to see inside it."  My response was "Well honey, it's not locked now."  Boy did she move quick. She was up at the steering wheel in no time!!

Craig Membrey, Malcom (2nd in charge Kenworth shed), Peter and Di and a touch of our bonnet!

Once the Police Chief arrived in the helicopter to conduct the safety watch from the air the call came to move on out.  And so we did.  With toots and blasts of air horns the show began.  It was amazing.  The boys in their toys - and I say that with genuine respect.  They were all so proud of the rigs they were driving and so grateful and happy to be there, their air horns sang to each other and the camaraderie was palpable. 

The joy we gave to people and people gave to us in that 50 minute drive was immense.  You'd make eye contact and people would smile and wave.  You'd hear their conversations 'Look at the black one',
'I want that one', and they'd smile so brightly when you blew the air horn for them.  Will was a softy for the kids, I don't think any who wanted to hear the air horn missed out!  One or two ladies standing close to the edge may have lost 5 minutes off their life as he swung the enormous rig in their direction before correcting it with a burst of laughter.


As we sheded the rig Will said, "I wish it had been a longer parade," but fortunately for us Liz CEO of NRTHF said "Sit and watch guys, everything is under control and if it's not, too bad.  Volunteers should enjoy the parade."  And so we did for the next hour and a half.  We saw the other truckers and trucketts have the fun of waving and tooting.  I leaned over to Will and said, 'Watching a parade has always been a buzz, but it's sure not the same as being IN a parade!'

And I thought the day was about as good as it could get, but it wasn't quite over yet.  Another 3 hour stint in the kitchen saw us pack up and head for home - tired, sunburnt and warn out.  I thought I didn't have any energy left until returning from a cool shower I found the Birdsville crew sitting around the camp fire. The festival was over, the crowds were thinning and our crew had time to sit together for the first time since Wednesday.  Heaven.  Potatoes in the coal, a piece of corn, some roast lamb, a glass of wine, shared stories and camaraderie.  Some days truly are diamonds!!

My Prediction was right!

Oh boy, was I right.  Once we started work Saturday there was no rest until all the pre-dinner drinks had been served and the Kenworth hall had once again been swept and mopped!!

Will's Day
8.30 am Head to Kenworth shed - sweep, mop, tidy up
11.00 Roll trailer away
11.45 am Grab a bite for lunch - queues very long so grabbed dim sims and chiko roll - Mr Healthy!
12.00 noon  Go to TIA shed, pack up seating for 1000 guests listening to inductions
1pm Put out tables and chairs and settings for 1000 guests for dinner
3.10 pm Stop for a snack delivered by Kate prior to next shift
4pm Commence set up of bar in Kenworth shed for pre-dinner drinks for 1000 guests at TIA shed
5.30 pm Serve beer to guests
7.00 pm Usher guests to TIA shed, start clean up
8.00 pm Stagger home with sore feet and near exhaustion

Kate's Day
8.00 am Write blog
10.00 am Check in at Kenworth Shed - all under control head to Stuart's Bush Kitchen
10.20 am Not needed until 11.45 at kitchen, wander back to Kenworth shed, have cuppa with Will and Wayne
11.00am Help roll trailer away, collect water for Mr Kenworth
11.45 am Call was made by Irene "Are all stations manned?" - she's ran army kitchens and successfully had her crew all organised ready to feed the 1000 or so guests from the induction.
12.00 pm Hand out containers of Butter chicken, beef and mash or vegetarian noodles
2.30 pm Hit the sink
3.00pm Irene says thanks, you've done heaps head off for a while
3.05 pm Check in on Will and others.  Find a few who haven't stopped for lunch or have had very little with a long night still ahead of them
3.10 pm Collect leftovers from lunch for the crew
3.30 pm Return to caravan to collect Will and my shirts for bar duty
4pm Commence set up of bar in Kenworth shed for pre-dinner drinks for 1000 guests at TIA shed
5.30 pm Serve beer to guests
7.00 pm Usher guests to TIA shed, start clean up
8.00 pm Stagger home with sore feet and near exhaustion

8.20 pm Band member from The Giants comes to collect wood as crowd is dispersing due to cold
8.25 pm Will and Kate help band member take wood around and stay to listen to music
8.30 pm Will is asked if he comes from Victoria- what the????  Will catches up with blokes he drove milk tankers with and has a great chat and many laughs
10.00 ish head for home
12.30 am finally Will stops talking and is winding down, Kate already nearly asleep!!

A little self-preservation

Now, maybe I'm selfish or maybe I'm wise but I am sitting quietly, taking a little time to catch my breath, make the bed, hang the washing and feel the calm before my day really begins.  Once I walk into the NRTHF I will be lucky to get a break and I will be surrounded by strung out people, so as the saying goes, I'm giving myself the oxygen first, because I can't save anybody else if I can't breathe. 

Today is open day to the public and Inductee day - that's happening as I type.  Kenworth opened their shed last night to rousing applause.  We worked the bar, saw the joy on J.J. Hurley's face as the shed was named after him and got to watch the pleasure the opening gave our Mr Kenworth.  And we also got to wipe, mop and sweep at the end of the event - just like old times!!

We did get to hang with a few celebs - well, Kenworth celebs.  We've met most of the people who speak on the video that goes ALL day, Ronnie - we've had a beer with around the camp fire, Paddy Ward has thanked me for cleaning his truck but without a doubt, the highlight for Will was when he introduced himself to Steve Graham of Outback Trucker Fame.  We've jested about him numerous times as we've bounced ourselves along the bumpy dirt roads and laughed and said it would be great to meet him.  I wasn't fortunate enough to say hello unless he was one of the 300 who nibbled from the plates I was carrying however I'm sure Will will introduce us today should he be so lucky as to chat with his old mate, Steve, again.

Di, Peter, Graham (Mr Kenworth), Kath and Bill ready for the opening

 

A quiet evening and a change of heart

After a long and tiring day we are both sitting quietly; one reading, one writing. We've scrubbed, mopped, moved and shone everything we can in the Kenworth shed. It looks so different from when we arrived. The shed is not the only thing that has changed since our arrival.  I've had a change of heart.  I thought a truck was a truck was a truck. But once I climbed into the T909 and the Directors Special, smelt the new leather, gazed at the fine craftsmanship of the dials, knobs and details on even the floor mats I became a Kenworth Girl!!  (Lucky I now own a Kenworth jacket and hat, thanks Graham!!)

My appreciation for the big rigs has grown enormously. I've searched for the right word to describe them - majestic? pieces of art? simply bloody amazing? (okay, the last three were Will's word.)  I'm still not sure I've got the words to describe them or maybe it's that I simply know somethings you can't understand or appreciate until you've experienced it.  For 11 years I've listened to just how wonderful a truck is, but now I get it for myself.

Some rigs truly are immaculate pieces of art, some have a commanding presence and others are really quite majestic.  When you sit in them and are engulfed by their size, you slink into the new leather of the seats and you stand up straight and walk into the bunk, then, and only then do you begin to appreciate their size, their power and their beauty.

The art work on some of the rigs reminds me of the work of a tattooist- so detailed and exquisite, telling their own important story, sometimes obvious to the observer, other times not so. There is the Anzac truck with beautiful graphics of traditional Anzac scenes and Craig Membreys truck in memory of his 17 year old son lost to Ice then suicide.  Not to mention ones in the paddock; there's Lady Di, one with characters from the Lord of the Rings and who knows what else!!

I found Graham, Mr Kenworth, taking a quiet moment to wander through appreciating the exhibition he has crafted. He said how important it is to stop and reflect and appreciate our achievements.  I felt a little guilty breaking into his peace and quiet but I think he was also happy to share his pride and satisfaction.

In just a few hours we open the doors to the public, they have been sneaking in and sometimes just blatantly waltzing into the closed off work zone.  We are looking forward to seeing their appreciation of the Old Grey Ghost, the new tri-axle (Yes, Will got to drive it too!), the mural and all our hard work.  But you know what, none of them well get to smell the new leather, feel the dials or press the start button like this lucky lady has

Mural in the new shed

Remember that empty shed - not anymore

T909 - what a beauty!

!

An unexpected gift

I woke to cloudy skies, strong loving hugs and happy birthday texts. I arrived at work to a rendition of Happy Birthday started by Di and Vina, who were quickly joined by the other 30 or so volunteers. On wandering into the Kenworth shed Mr Kenworth himself sang happy birthday, gave me a kiss and  asked if I would mind having the morning off as trucks would still be moved so no sense starting any more cleaning. What a gift, a little me time. When I returned after lunch to be greeted with the same news it became a wonderful gift - a whole day off. Shopping and organising in the morning, quiet think time and new sights in the afternoon. What a lucky lady!

As I headed out to find the Alice Springs cultural precinct I was compelled to stop and take a photo of the once empty paddock. Vans, campers, trucks and tractors are now vying for top spot. And in amongst them all I spotted a native flower I hadn't noticed here previously. And instead of the angst I'd felt from fellow volunteers I felt the excitement of a festival about to begin. The strawberry and cream van is set up, the fish and chip van is ready to cook, the band has arrived and is camped at Birdsville, the restorers are constantly polishing and preening, the sightseers are stopping and photographing it all. A big party is set to begin!

And then, within 20 minutes, I was in the pristine world of the museum and art gallery. What a contrast to what I'd just left. The outdoor sculpture was stunning, the dust- what dust? There was stillness and quiet, and so many contrasts.  Albert Namatjira's pale landscapes of areas we've travelled hung closely by strong coloured dot paintings and beautifully crafted weaving. The courtyard holding their sculptures was still and the ground red. The ladies sacred mountain was slightly hidden by the soon to be built cafe work zone. And in amongst the stillness, out of the blue, came a message to me from one of the mum's at school. She was telling me about a recent movie where Joy needs Sadness, because without it how would we recognise joy or happiness? The thought made me smile, would I be appreciating this beauty, this treasured experience if everything that had gone before it had been easy and simple? Maybe, maybe not. My grandfather wrote in my autograph book many, many years ago - May there be just enough clouds on your horizon to form a beautiful sunset. Maybe last years clouds have helped this years sunsets.

A quiet start to a busy week

The 9.00am meeting was attended by about 52 volunteers.  We were reminded of our responsibilities to the NRTHF sponsors and visitors and given an opportunity to ask questions about the coming few days.  It turns out tomorrow is the 'arrivals' day, however it seems many visitors have chosen to arrive early to get a good camp spot.  There are about 150 campers already out in the hot and dusty paddock.  The number of visitors wandering through the museums has increased markedly and our Kenworth boss is back in full swing.  Registration for the event opens Wednesday and events get fully underway on Thursday.  The printer failed to talk to the computer so we are still none the wiser as to our roster for those days although it was confirmed that you largely keep doing what you've already been doing, just more of it!!  Mopping here I come!!

It was well worth the effort we've put in over the two few weeks as our boss is most impressed with the trucks and the floor! Yay!  Today we helped hang large placards describing the history of different dealerships, arranged photos, removed protective film from placards and then it was time for home - for me anyway.  The only job left was moving the prime movers, seems Graham didn't think I was up for that challenge. 

Another 4 trucks are arriving tomorrow, all of which will need washing and moving into the shed - there goes the clean floor!!  But for today it was an afternoon off, a return to 'normal' life.  A little bit of washing, even some hand washing as wearing a white shirt ballooning was a big mistake.  (I didn't realise we had to help pack the very dusty out back balloon into it's over-sized sleeping bag case!)  Baked a cake, swept the floor and read a book.  Lovely.  Due to the shorter amounts of time off I think this will be my week of stealing an hour here or there to read a book, (The Bush is next on the list book clubbers), take a Nana nap or go for a walk. Not a bad way to spend part of a holiday!

The close of Chapter Two

I’ve imagined our trip would have quite distinct chapters.  Chapter One: Sight-seeing between home and Alice Springs.  Chapter Two:  Settling into RTHF and sight-seeing around Alice.  Chapter Three: Reunion Week.  Chapter Four: (the shortest of the lot) Head for home

Last night heralded the close of Chapter Two.  The last official volunteers’ function before the Reunion was held at Stuart’s Bush Kitchen; Fish and Chips and a little karaoke.  The men were asked to dress as roadhouse workers and the women as truckies.  The night was hilarious!! 

Will and Liz Martin CEO of NRTHF

Many women got in the spirit of the evening with blue singlets, flannelettes shirts and high vis vests over pot bellies abounding.  Not to be out done a dozen or so men got into the spirit of the night too!  We had waitresses with their aprons, cleaners with bows in their hair and she devils along with a few others.  It was lovely to hear the constant laughter, the cheeky jokes, the quick one liners and the fun had by all.

A highlight, not just of the evening, but of our trip will be my memory of Will and I singing ‘I’ve Got You Babe’ to a wildly applauding and laughing audience.  As I reached for Will’s hand singing “I’ve got you to hold my hand” I felt totally relaxed and in high spirits.  It was such a simple moment of joy and unexpected pleasure.  I'm so glad he suggested we sing something together.

Darling Noelene!!

We still can’t believe our good fortune at arriving to find such accepting, fun loving people who enjoy a laugh with you, not at you. And now, we have added another chapter to our itinerary - Chapter 5: Catching up with our Birdsville friends and what a treat that chapter will be.

Will and Kate

Some of the 'ladies'

The Birdsville Truckers

The gods are smiling

I felt from the moment the bus driver said, "Umm, you guys are the only ones who opted for the half hour trip, so we'll take you for the full hour at no extra cost," that the day was going to be a ripper! Let's face it, I wasn't going to be jumping out half way through a balloon flight!  After three locked gates and some bumpy roads we finally reached the launch place.  "Get on, get on," was the cry as the wind began picking up.  As I heard the pilot swear I started to think our luck had turned.  'Whiskers' tapped me on my white knuckles as I clung to the landing and launching ropes and smiled reassuringly as we waited for lift off.  Maybe he was starting to doubt his choice of being my support person!

I hadn't ever wondered about the take off of a balloon, but it can be a little rocky.  When I saw the land-rover the balloon was tied to moving around the paddock I wondered if I'd really made a wise choice, or if I too should have gone with the 'No motor, no steering wheel, no me rule' employed by Will. 

But once we were soaring I knew I'd made the right decision.  It was noisier than I had imagined, perhaps because my spot was right under the burners, however, I figured that also gave me a more stable position for take off and landing.

The view was magnificent.  We caught the end of sunrise, saw the East and West MacDonnell Ranges in all their glory, had a peak at Pine Gap, spotted a few roos and a herd of cattle too as we passed over a paddock of The Owen Springs Station.  We saw the shadow cast by our balloon laid out against the red of the outback and I watched a flock of birds fly past in the distance.  And then I breathed and relaxed.  It was magical. 

Four hours after touch down and the smile is still on my lips.  Maybe the traditional champagne after a balloon flight has a little to do with that but I think it's more the memories of a truly special hour and the glow of the feeling that the gods have smiled upon us since leaving home for this wonderful holiday.

Back on solid ground

Something in the air

There's something in the air, and not just the unexpected clouds and warm winds carrying whirly whirlies.  There's a feeling of quiet discontent creeping into camp. First timers like ourselves are full of questions; What job will we be given? How many hours will we work? How tiring will it be?  For old hands and repeat returners it's the wisdom of knowing what lies ahead. Yep, long hours, tiring jobs, extra people sharing limited facilities, overflowing septics.  When I catch myself thinking ahead I remind myself it can't be that bad, plenty of volunteers have chosen to return, and hey, at the worst, it's only 7 days!!

Our camp fire gatherings have grown to around 30 people with more caravans and guests arriving tomorrow. Gone has the security of knowing you'll sit beside a favourite and have a conversation that grips you. Whilst there is no one we dislike we certainly enjoy the company of some more than others.  It's no surprise they are the ones with the positive outlooks and a quick wit. Although, even some of those are struggling as the crazy week fast approaches.

Today, as I felt my blood pressure rise I realised I hadn't had a dose of quiet time under a gumtree for a few days.  So, after a quick bite at a favourite bakery, Will dropped me off at the Historic Telegraph Station Reserve.  My plan was to either have a long walk or find a big tree to sit under. As the temperature was over 30 and I was looking at the walk taking me into the heat of the day I found a tree but not before exploring the historic buildings.

Whilst the information on the building of the telephone line was interesting it was the stories of how this impacted on the indigenous communities that gripped me. From 1932 the station was known as The Bungalows, a school slash home for half caste children, we now know as the Stolen Generation. To help put their story in perspective I wondered what my life would be like had my mum been removed from her family because of her fathers German ansestory?  Even though I've read the history I still find it hard to comprehend that this tragedy was happening in such recent times.  I'd wondered when or if I would find this history told in Alice Springs and I'm very glad I stumbled upon it as I looked for my tree to sit beneath.

I found my tree. I made sure it was one with a view of the the MacDonnell Ranges. Yes, the desert is getting under my skin. The rocks now call me in the way the Victorian bush has for so long. They are so big and strong and sturdy.  I felt the tension of the day slip away as I sat on the watered green grass watching the parrots and galahs feed, the finches play in puddles beneath taps and the sunlight bounce of the range.

Birdsville's favourite son

As I lay in bed with summer pjs on, windows open and wait for the over night low of 10 to arrive I listen to the last few voices around the campfire. I hear Peter, Di and Will fairwell Ronnie. Comments from Geoff begin to float on the air too. No surprise that Will's out there till the end, he is most evenings. Of course if he's not there at the beginning the question is asked - Where's ....?, and here's the thing, it could be any of a number of names. Let's see if I can remember just some of the names he's earned since arriving three weeks ago.

Noddy 
Young William
Long William

Tall Will

Kenworth William

The Kid

Kenworth Will with his side kick Peter

Billiam

Billy

Gorilla (Have you heard the one about the gorilla and the lion?)

Boss

The Ape

The moveable ladder

All are called with great affection and good humour.  I'm quite sure I will be revisiting this page and adding to it as my memory returns and the list of names grow. 

The 'What If?' Game

Since getting ready for our trip I've been determined to play a new version of an old game - What if?  Previously I've played this game the traditional way, adding a negative outcome to the end of the sentence just to keep me safe and sensible. And so has Will. Without even a conversation about it we both seem to have reached consensus to play a new way- What if... Everything goes well?

What if...we tow an old van with an old car and get all the way to Central Australia? What if ... We camp for 4 weeks with a group of strangers and we get along really well?  What if... We go out to tea with a group of people and have fun? What if...

It's interesting to sit with people each evening and notice who plays the game the old or new way. Some are getting 'worked up' over lost cutlery, not enough red serviettes, whose that stranger using our toilet block.  What if... There's not enough wine glasses, or the chairs aren't ready or or or... It's hard not to get caught up in their game but Will reminded me today to play the new game. If the floors aren't mopped to perfection by Monday and we've worked our hours then they can get someone extra to help us.  'Just relax,' he said. So after many deep breathes and a near blister on my palm from sweeping and mopping I did just that. I prepared the hedgehog slice for Friday nights social gathering and chatted to Will as he touched up the pin striping on The Patrol  - goodness knows she deserves some TLC after all the work she's done for us!  Then off to purchase outfits for Saturday's social event,  a quick visit to the School of the Air and it was time to head home to get ready for dinner at the golf course. ( I never dreamt we'd need so much time to stay on top of our social life!).  That's when it hit me What if.. the floors aren't quite as clean as I'd hoped to have them? Well, after the first 29 people walk in who's going to notice and with 10,000 visitors expected they aren't going to stay clean for long anyway!!!  So What if... You work hard, do what's reasonable and make the most of the next 4 days of sightseeing while you can?  What if Mr Kenworth walks in and says 'Great job, thank heaps'?  What if... It all works out fine?  Life has returned to being carefree and relaxed since Will reminded me to play our new game.

So much to remember

I stood in the middle of the creek bed and wondered, how will I ever remember all of this - The changes in the ground under my feet, from rocks to sand to boulders, (if really large flat rocks are called boulders)? The colours laying side by side, the rich deep purples of the rocks, the orange of the gorge walls, the white of the bark and the grey green of the leaves? The serenity when surrounded by walls so high bringing shade and shelter with only the occasional bird call reminding you that you aren't the only living thing here? The joy of finding water in a sandy pool?  The splashes of dried mud that remind you this sleeping giant can spring to life quickly and wreck havoc with incredible force?  The feeling of giddiness as you peer over the falls edge and look into the two blue pools far far below? The feeling of accomplishment when the climb becomes challenging but, with a helping hand, is easily achieved?  So much to remember from one gorge and one mornings wanderings.

Is it because we are on holidays that you slow down and ponder and take the time to focus on what is really around you or are things in the Northern Territory just big and unmissable as they advertise? Will said as we rounded the corner from our second gorge walk of the day, "There's so much more here than that big bloody rock you always here about!" and I had to agree.  We are loving find a four wheel drive track and heading to a less known quieter spot. John Hayes Hole is on the way to Traphiner Gorge, but as its high clearance vehicles only, we had the place to ourselves which enhanced the experience tremendously.  When we arrived at Traphiner Gorge we greeted many others as we walked the rim and creek bed. Whilst the views were still stunning the experience wasn't quite the same.

N'Dhala Gorge hadn't been mentioned by others, but once we saw it was 4WD it had our name written all over it. Will's highlight was the water crossing, mine the Aboriginal carving on a rock, just sitting there, with an explanation sign but for all to enjoy, no ropes around it, no rules, no regulations.

That also drew our attention today, the lack of do's and don'ts in the territory. Cliff edges to wander to, sign posted so you find it but no safety rails, no be aware signs, no don't drink this it isn't treated signs!  It's very refreshing to be encouraged to enjoy all that is around you.

The Unconventional Tourists

Before hitting the highways I made a promise to myself.  I would let things happen and take opportunities that came my way rather than have a must see list and a timetable.  It’s worked really well so far but with the pressure of fewer days before us than behind us, it’s becoming a little difficult to keep my promise.  Added to that is the helpful advice “You must visit here,” “You must drive there!” 

Today, with some hesitation, after watching the Henley on Todd Regatta Parade I decided to drive home with Will rather than stopping to see the ‘must do’ galleries and ‘should see’ events of the Henley Regatta.  I’d already enjoyed watching a caring drumming teacher organise his band of 16 or so students (some barefoot, some shoed) into some sort of order.  When a student’s nose ran, he wiped it.  When another tugged at his sleeve and pointed out something funny he gave her his undivided attention.  I snuck a few photos and Will grinned and said “Happy now, you’ve got your shot of some locals,” which was exactly true. 

I noticed the lovely aboriginal designed seats I’d missed the day before and I’d laughed at the hijinks of the Navy Crew with the Vikings contenders.  I’d watched little children be thrown more bags of lollies than they need in a year and I’d recalled the joys of watching the Benalla Rose Festival Parade from years before. 

It was tempting to ask Will to take me for a short 4 hour drive, as that’s about as short as they come in Alice but I didn’t.  We decided on an early afternoon in preparation for a full day out tomorrow.   So home we headed, and yes, it really feels like home - if only my son were nearby for the occasional long conversation and short hug!  We took one extra turn to enquire about the cost of disposing of an old truck, just in case the K5 out the back is going cheap and we need to dispose of it after stripping it of necessary spare parts. Isn’t that what all tourists need to know about??  To our delight we found the town tip which runs an extraordinary second hand shop.  You want it, it’s there!! So we wandered our way through enjoying the way another town does its thing.  We came away with one wine glass, a novel and a photo of a fantastic sculpture.  And memories of a shared time in a place that will never find its name on the list of Must Do’s in Alice Springs.

The afternoon is drawing to a close as we read books, take turns Nana napping, and I enjoy a wine from a glass given by a dear friend.  I won’t see everything there is to see around Alice and I'm okay with that. 

You never know what you'll find

The Ghan heading through the Gap

I've looked forward to seeing a different side of Australia from the moment I began planning this trip and I have not been disappointed. The rocks of the East and West McDonald Ranges are like nothing I've seen before. They occasionally bring to mind one place or other I've been, Power's Lookout perhaps, but nowhere have I ever seen such vast ranges of rocky beauty coupled with the sandy course of a river bed winding its way through a gap in a mountain side. Whether we wander through shady areas admiring Aboriginal rock art of long ago or burnt out scrub flush with new growth and outbreaks of wild flowers my senses are overloaded,  my spirit at ease and renewed.

From the moment we met, Will and I have been the Ying and the Yang for each other. For me it's the raw beauty of all that this land has to share that has reenergised me, for Will it's the car wrecks, old trucks and campfire comeraderi that has opened his soul.

At times I wonder if our family and friends would recognise this Will who is journeying along with me. The quiet reserved man I left home with hasn't been spotted since arriving in Birdsville.  Rather the larrikin of long ago, that I'd only ever heard about, is here. I've often wondered what it would have been like to know him. It's wonderful. He's one of the first to join the campfire chat and one of the last to leave, he's table top danced with Frank and he's tried his hand at karaoke. Unbelievable!

It seems I got far more than I hoped for, not only a look at a different Australia but a look at a different Will. What a treat!

A Locals Look

Any time I visit a place for an extended length of time I try to use their public transport at least once, you get a great insight into daily life for locals. This tradition began on my trip to Tasmania where my aunt popped me on the local bus from Deloraine to Launceston. They actually combined school buses and public buses. I still remember that trip vividly. So yesterday Will and I jumped on the local bus to do our shopping. It picks up right outside the NRTHF 5 times throughout the day. We chose to go in at 3 in the afternoon which meant the bus schedule had gone back to their short runs by the time our return bus would be coming back. We took that into consideration and decided it wasn't that far to walk. Hey, it couldn't be as long as some of the scenic walks we'd completed!

So off we set, $3.00 for 3 hours, no tricky Miki, just pass over some coins, take your ticket and have a seat. Then answer a few questions from the driver - Which state are you from? Which AFL team do you support? If I'd known that I'd have left you on the sidewalk! Do you tow a caravan? Do you ever park it in bus zones?  A talkative and helpful driver. (On our return trip Will pointed out the 'Don't talk to the driver' sign and we chuckled.)  "Don't get off here, cos you can't get on here. Stay on and I'll tell you where's best to get on and off." And so we did!

We noticed lots of locals sitting on sidewalks chatting together, their numbers increasing as the day grew longer.  To us this is such an unfamiliar sight so you start to replay the many stories you've heard about the local community members and the differences between their way of life and ours. Then I wondered was there much difference between them gathering to share stories and perhaps a drink to what we would be doing later, sitting around a campfire, chatting with friends and telling tales while enjoying a drink? Although I'm naive in many ways of politics and people's issues I understand from the brief conversation I listened to while visiting Parliament in Darwin that there are, unfortunately, great differences between the two because of the negative impact grog is having on a wonderful but susceptible group. 

When advised by our chatty driver, 'OK Victorians, this is your stop,' we hopped off just outside Safeway and headed in to the shopping centre where we were met with a cry 'Hey, Kenworth boy.' One of our Birdsville mates had spotted Bill. There has been lots of ribbing between John and his mate from many years, Frank  who is also staying at Birdsville and Will and Pete, the two Kenworth boys. Some of the ribbing came about as poor Will has an uncanny knack of needing the toilet when Frank is showering. The men's facilities lack the privacy of the women's which caused embarrassment to Will as he's now seen Frank naked more times than he'd ever wished for.   

After a chat with John and Dot we proceeded with our shopping, clarified directions with the young officer outside our final shopping destination and headed off as directed. The young officer had every piece of police gear hanging off her belt that you could possibly imagine - unfortunately her knowledge of bus stops was not as comprehensive!  Using commonsense and information from our helpful bus driver we found our way to the real bus stop where we had a 10 minute wait - easy! 

The bus wound its way around the main street where we noticed one of the bottle shops was clear of locals and police. On our first day there had been plenty of both!  It's likely that it was closed for some reason.  Many quiet well dressed locals travelled along with us on their way home from shopping, work or a day out.  The child shyly hiding her face when Will smiled at her.

 After our bus trip around back streets and seeing a bit more of local life we arrived at our stop. We wandered away from the bus with Will saying "Bloody Hell, we're still a long way from home' and me smirking, I'd suspected this would be the feeling once we actually got underway with groceries in hand. As we passed the local radio station a lady called from the front door  "How far are you two going?" When we told her she said "Gees, that's still a fair way, do you need a toilet break, you're welcome to come in?' A kind offer, but we plodded on.  Just short of the NRTHF a car pulled up and Dave yelled out, "Get in you two." I knew he'd stop once he recognised us, you see, he has a soft sport for Will and I,  'The Kids'.  We were mighty glad to throw the shopping in and hop in with Whiskers and Noelene. But I'm also mighty glad that I got my ride on public transport- a must in every new town  

Diary of a Wombat - oops Worker!

6.00 am Wake as Will leaves van for toilet visit. (Red bucket still in pristine condition)
7.00 am Walk along disused railway. Notice hot air balloon floating in clear calm morning sky
7.15 am Facebook notification - 3 people liked picture of you and Di dancing on table top - must notify readers that alcohol was not involved, just willingness to laugh at self and have a good time
7.30am Notice burrows and many animal skats on walk
7.55 am Pop on load of washing
8.00am Home in time to cook breakfast as Will returns from showering
8.30 am Will takes radiator for repairs
8.45 am Hang washing
9.00 am Arrive at work, notify boss about light switch that went ZZZZZ last night and now won't turn off
9.30 am Count tables, tubs and table cloths for reunion event. Continue washing oil spots off floor
9.45 am Freak out quietly when Will says new radiator has to come from Melbourne via Adelaide and prossibly Darwin. MIGHT make it by Thursday
10.30 am Morning Tea break
10.45 am Blu tac massive pictures to wall to stabilise them
11.00 am Sweep 3 sections of large shed
12.30 pm Early lunch, chow mein for one, steak and salad for the other
1.00 pm Prepare roast lamb and pop in crock pot. Prepare potatoes, sweet potatoes and carrots for dinner
1.30 pm Collect dry washing from line
1.45 pm Return to work
2.00 pm Use black cloth tape to attach massive pictures to wall as Blu tac has already fallen off!
2.45 pm Start cleaning black and gold professionally printed sandwich boards in front of each truck. Dust, wipe etc. Read one for interest - hmmm, a typo, wonder if anyone has mentioned that to the boss - probably been here for 10 years but I'm sure group is not spelt gruop!
3.45pm Still cleanings sandwich boards
4.00pm Time to knock off
4.15 pm Take photos of green parrots around camp area
4.30 pm. Hear about tall thin man spotted walking to toilets at 6.00 am wearing purple with white polka dot dressing gown. Chuckle loudly
5.00 pm Meet others for happy hour
5.15 pm Relay story of radiator. Be informed that NT stands for Not Tomorrow, Not Tuesday, Not Thursday, Next truck maybe if not Next Train - all hope of seeing more of McDonald Range fading fast.
7.00pm Serve Roast lamb and veggies - yum!
8.00pm Return to fire with cup of tea. Tell Geoff and Peter that yes, Will is out of Vodka so is staying in for rest of evening. Peter and Geoff quickly agree that tomorrow Will will borrow Peters vehicle to pick up supplies, neither can bear to see grown man cry - particularly very short Geoff who is afraid Will might dribble on him in despair! Such sympathy.
8.30pm Acknowledge that yes we have eaten dinner. Peter expresses wish that he had been fed, stating that even bread and butter would do.  His lovely wife is just within hearing. When I suggest bread and butter and duck under the table he taught me a version my dear dad sure never did!  But it did make me chuckle!
8.35 pm Retire to annex to Blog for the evening
8.45 pm Move into van as evening starting to get cool, t-shirt and vest no longer warm enough. Look forward to starting new novel

A Mixed Bag

Today has been a mixed bag of emotions.  Will and I set off to drive along the old Ghan Railway line but first he suggested a little detour out the back to find a Chinaman's loader.  This is a hole dug into a lump of dirt so trucks can back up to it and unload it's cargo.  We may have located it but we're not sure.  However we did find the 4WD track that goes over the hills we see from our van, the same ones we watch the sun set behind each evening.

So off we went.  The track brought great joy to Will, some REAL 4WD-ing.  I knew when he asked if I'd like to get out and walk that it was getting serious.  When I asked why he thought I might like to do that he explained that due to lots of loose rocks there was every chance we would just slip backwards rather than go up the hill. By the time I made up my mind we'd already tried and slipped back and the decision was made to reverse out a little way and go a different track that we'd spied.  I was grateful that Will had explained the situation prior to commencing the climb.

I'm still not sure which brought Will more joy, the 4WD-ing or the white knuckles he chuckled about that were holding firmly onto the bar in front of my seat.  I can hear him and Geoff chuckling about it as we speak right now!!  Will did say he thought I'd coped well, no screaming, crying or shouting "Stop!!", so I guess I passed the test.

As we left that area we came across many car wheels and tyres and other rubbish.  But high in spirits having successfully managed my first real 4WD expedition we carried on to our next location. The Old Ghan Track.  It wasn't far before we found not only old wheels but whole wrecks, the likely work of a group who have taken them just out of town to strip. I've seen the wrecks on the side of the road on Outback
Truckers and the like but it was sad to see them and you just got the feeling that it's just part of the way of life for some up here.  Perhaps not so much the stealing but certainly the dumping of rubbish and whatever you need to get rid of.  No doubt there are places around home we could find similar, but not to the same extent and it's more usually the work of 'tourists' dropping off unwanted household rubbish.  As Will wandered around the wrecks I wandered the dry but far from barren desert.  In the most unlikely spots were signs of life and hope.  Be it a bee on a flower, an ant nest of intricate patterning or a subtle little flower saying 'It's okay, we keep on keeping on,' it made me hope that those who'd been nearby, not noticing, would also one day find the hope we all need.